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In the Arizona High Desert, Taking the Temperature of a Wine Boom

One of the bottles that Mario, our server, placed in front of us for a $12 flight tasting — a tasty 2015 Seyval Blanc with a hint of fresh sliced apple — came from vines at D.A.Ranch, which locals refer to as the prettiest in the valley. It was an unhurried, splendid tasting, with Mario frequently stopping by to educate us on what we were drinking.

Another standout was the 2017 Cousin Idd, a velvety, complex red with hints of red licorice and chocolate. On the bottle, each grape type was listed, along with the date it was harvested, and the elevation of each vineyard. It struck me that…

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